Page 39 - Flathead Living // Fall 2016

TOP A vine on the property in Lower Valley. BOTTOM Steve Cummings’ tools of the trade. RIGHT Cummings at his vineyard.
Thanks to genetic tinkering that has rendered more crossbred varieties suited for harsh weather, along with rising appreciation for local goods, “Montana grape grower” is no longer akin to “Antarctica coconut producer.” And while many Montana grapes are currently destined for out-of-state winemakers, there are more wineries emerging in Big Sky Country. Given recent developments, it’s not too hard to envision Montana as a viable wine region: growing grapes, making wine, and selling it both out of state and locally, although nobody is anticipating the state’s rebirth as Napa Valley.
Grape cultivation is not without its di culties here. The growing season is short and unpredictable, and grapes need a certain prolonged amount of warmth to sweeten up, otherwise they
are too acidic. And even when the weather cooperates, only specialized varieties – typically genetic combina- tions of American and French grapes – are hardy enough to grow in this northern climate.
“Our harvest strategy here is to har- vest a day before it freezes,” Cummings says.
On a recent July afternoon, Cum- mings examined the still-green grapes of his Frontenac vines, which were among the rst he planted a decade ago. Frontenac is a hybrid created at the University of Minnesota from the Landot 4511 and cold-hardy Vitis riparia grapes. Along with Marquette and Sabrevois grapes, Frontenac produced the prize-winning Cuvee blend.
Cummings won’t be selling his Cuvée, but he’d be more than happy to someday see a whole shelf of Montana wines at the local supermarket.
“Made-in-Montana wine,” he says. “That has some cachet to it.” FL
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FLATHEAD LIVING S FALL 2016 37