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FLATHEADBEACON.COM
FEBRUARY 19, 2014 // THE FOOD ISSUE 17
Spaghetti Western
The culinary talents of Fabrizio Moroldo
stand out among the best in the U.S.
BYDILLON TABISH OF THE BEACON
by two speciic American cowboys: John
BWayne and Gary Cooper.
IGFORK — The irst res- Years later when Moroldo began vis-
ervations were made six iting America for work, he ventured on
months prior. By the week a detour to visit Cooper’s home state of
of Valentine’s Day, there Montana. It became a regular vacation
wasn’t a single table avail-
destination for the family, one that drew
able at Moroldo’s Fine Italian Restaurant. their interest more and more with each
Ten years later, this family restaurant visit. Finally they uprooted, but Morol-
that sits hidden up a dirt road, tucked do brought his country’s revered cuisine
among stands of pine trees and moss- with him. Instead of creating an Italian
covered outcrops, is well established as restaurant built on America’s ideals, he
one of the top ine-dining experiences in kept it genuine and authentic.
Montana. Head chef Fabrizio Moroldo “Some people have the wrong idea of
has developed a devoted following with what’s real Italian,” he says, citing greasy,
his homegrown culinary talents that are high-fat menu items. “Many customers
rooted in Italy and hold a revered stature
come here and they know it’s real Italian
in the Flathead Valley.
because they’ve been to Italy.”
His reputation extended beyond
Customers have become accustomed
this corner of the state last year when to such specialty items as the rigatoni
he was named one of the foremost chefs all’ammatricia, featuring pasta with ba-
in America by his peers. Moroldo was con imported from Italy, fresh tomatoes,
one of 12 chefs in Montana to be chosen basil, spicy red pepper and pecorino ro-
for the inaugural edition of “Best Chefs mano, or veal cutlets made with an as-
America,” a publication calling itself “the sortment of secret recipes.
ultimate chef’s guide to chefs” that show- Part of the joy that Moroldo inds in
cases the best in the culinary world. Mor- his work is the creativity that comes with
oldo and Andy Blanton of Caf́ Kanda- cooking. His menu is constantly evolv-
har in Whiteish were the lone nominees ing, and his customers frequently ask
from Northwest Montana.
him to dish up a unique, specialty plate of
“I was not expecting it,” Moroldo says his choice.
recently, expressing surprise about the “That makes you happy because they
award.
trust you,” he says.
His customers were likely less Yet despite the accolades and favor,
shocked.
Moroldo is focused on constantly evolv-
Moroldo’s is an intimate, well-lighted ing and discovering new lavors.
place that comforts guests with the aro- “You don’t make it a favor for people
mas and characteristic spirit of Italian to come to your place. They make it a fa-
fare. The walls feature historic photos vor to come to you. Lots of people in the
of Venice and the Moroldos’ lineage that restaurant business, they’ve forgotten
has its roots overseas. A rock ireplace this,” he says.
as its centerpiece, the cozy atmosphere “We try always to do something dif-
feels more like home than a business. The ferent and to please them. I like it be-
remote setting of Montana Highway 35 cause then they don’t feel like just a cus-
only makes it more of an eating adven- tomer coming into the restaurant, order-
ture.
ing, eating, paying and then leaving. We
So how did Moroldo, his wife Laura have relationships with our customers
and two kids, Ethan and Kimberley, end and that’s what we’ve built over time.”
up leaving Italy and arriving in Bigfork 10 Moroldo’s Fine Italian Restaurant is
years ago?
located at 7951 Montana Highway 35 in
“When I was a kid I loved cowboys,” Bigfork. During winter, the restaurant is
Moroldo says. After all, Italy is home to open Wednesday-Saturday and six-days-
the spaghetti Western. Growing up the a-week in mid-June, closed Tuesdays.
young boy watched every classic West- Call 837-2720.
ern ilm he could and became enamored
[email protected]
Fabrizio Moraldo was recognized as one of the Best Chefs in America in 2013, one of only 12 recognized
across Montana. GREG LINDSTROM | FLATHEAD BEACON