My workshop for Free the Seeds last weekend focused on seeds as spices. I strongly encourage you to buy spices whole and grind them in small batches at home. Whole spices last longer, and freshly ground ones have superb flavor. You also save money, primarily because you’re not throwing out half-used jars that have gone from fragrant to flat.
Even in my tiny kitchen, I keep a large collection of spices and herbs within easy reach, each in a 1- to 3-ounce container. I store most individually but blend my favorite combinations, like the smoky spice rub I demonstrated in last weekend’s Seeds of Flavor workshop on Zesty Baked Chickpea Snacks. The handout with that spice blend recipe will be available soon on my food blog and in the Free the Seeds Workshop Library on the Land to Hand Montana website.
I also keep this sweet spice blend handy. This mixture is essentially a fusion of an Indian garam masala and a Chinese five spice. I use it in various baked goods, homemade granola and recipes I’ve shared in this column, like Russian Kasha and Home-Spiced Nuts.
Direct heat brings spices’ aromatic oils to the surface, so I recommend toasting whole spices before you grind them. When I buy a large amount of gingerroot, I peel and slice it into rounds and dry these in my food dehydrator until they break when flexed. These dried ginger pieces can be toasted as long as the other whole spices.
If you use preground ginger or any other powdered spices, toasting takes mere seconds. But it’s fine to toast a mix of whole and ground spices for a couple of minutes; just be sure to stir constantly, be alert with your eyes and nose and immediately remove the mix from the hot pan when the powder becomes fragrant.
Sweet Spice Mix
Makes 1/4-1/3 cup
3-inch cinnamon stick
1 whole star anise
1/2 whole nutmeg
4 teaspoons allspice berries
1 tablespoon whole cloves
1-1/2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1/8 teaspoon Szechuan peppercorns
1/8 teaspoon fennel seeds
2 teaspoons ground ginger
Break the cinnamon stick and star anise into pieces, and grate the nutmeg using a nutmeg grater or microplane. Warm a heavy, dry skillet over low-medium heat. When hot, toast all ingredients except the ground ginger for two to five minutes, stirring constantly, until the spices give off a lightly toasted aroma. Add the ginger and heat, stirring, for about 10 seconds, until aromatic. Transfer to a piece of parchment or plate to cool completely.
If desired, use a clean spice mill, coffee grinder or mortar and pestle to grind the blend first into a coarse powder, stirring as needed prevent clumping, and then until fine. Store the blend in a small jar or opaque container away from heat and light. For the best flavor, use within a year when whole or three months when ground. Makes about 1/3 cup as a whole spice blend and 1/4 cup when ground.
Julie Laing is a Bigfork-based cookbook author and food blogger at TwiceAsTasty.com.