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Skinny Skis and Corduroy

The Flathead Valley is a gateway to gliding through the forests on cross-country skis

By Tristan Scott
Cameron Blake skis at the Glacier Nordic Center in Whitefish on Dec. 28, 2017. Justin Franz | Flathead Beacon

There’s no debate about the positive health benefits of Nordic skiing, and the intense but low-impact, total-body workout is the perfect excuse to take a day off from the slopes, burn a mess of calories — on average, Nordic skiers burn 650 calories an hour — and boost the endorphins while strengthening those downhill legs.

But it’s also a lot of fun, and the grace of kicking and gliding can be just as mesmerizing as a chairlift spinning at your favorite downhill ski area.

Here are some possibilities right out your back door.

Glacier Nordic Center

The Glacier Nordic Club grooms 12 kilometers of trails regularly, so you can depend on a smooth ride. Just under a mile west of Whitefish on U.S. Highway 93, a brown sign on the right indicates the Nordic parking lot.

On the north side of the highway, the tracks cut through open sections of trees towards Whitefish Lake across flatter lands, which are generally better for beginners or skiers who want to fine-tune their technical skills. A tunnel brings skiers south of the highway, where they can branch off to a 3.6-kilometer loop that runs along Lost Loon Lake. Four kilometers of trail are also illuminated through the winter for night skiing until 10 p.m. Daily trail passes can be purchased at the Glacier Nordic Shop. Annual membership is $65 for an individual and $130 for a family. Dogs are not permitted on the course.

Grooming updates are available at glaciernordicclub.com, or call Glacier Cyclery and Nordic at (406) 862-6446.

Big Mountain Nordic Center

There are 23 kilometers of trails at the Big Mountain Nordic Center, which offers some more challenging terrain with steep and curvy descents. Glacier Nordic Club grooms 11 kilometers of these trails, while Iron Horse Golf Club manicures the other 12 kilometers. Access the well-marked trail system from the trailhead at 3315 Big Mountain Road, about a half-mile past Ptarmigan Village on the right side of the road.

The trailhead is part of the Whitefish Trail, while the Glacier Nordic Club contributed about half of the $100,000 cost to develop the trailhead through its membership fees and funds raised through the Great Fish Challenge. Although a fee is not required to ski the trails, Glacier Nordic supports its grooming operations through season memberships and donations. Purchase your annual membership or make a donation at the Glacier Nordic Shop at the Whitefish Lake Golf Course or online. The same pass works for all trails maintained by the Glacier Nordic Center.

Dogs are permitted, but must be on leash on Whitefish Mountain Resort land and owners should clean up after them.

Blacktail Nordic Trails

South facing and close to Flathead Lake, the Nordic trails on Blacktail get regular sun. They also offer views of the lake, the Swan Crest, and the Mission Mountains. Twenty-five kilometers of trails run through clear-cut forests and old Forest Service roads. With some of the best grooming for skate skiing, there are also many races here through the season. Skiing sets off from the main parking lot, which is eight miles up Blacktail Road from Lakeside. For the area’s most challenging terrain, head north on the 9.3-kilometer Powerline Loop. The North Shore Nordic Club does not charge trail fees, but donations keep operations running and trails groomed. Dogs are permitted.

To make a donation or print out a trail map visit northshorenordic.org.

Dog Creek Nordic Center

The Nordic Center at Dog Creek is located in Olney, about 20 miles north of Whitefish on U.S. Highway 93 North, where cross-country ski enthusiasts will find 20 kilometers of groomed trails.

The trail system is unique in that it covers both private and public land adjoining the Stillwater State Forest, which means a portion of every purchased trail pass goes directly to local schools because the land is held in state trust.

There’s also lodging available, while the Dog Creek Café serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, and Moe’s Joe Coffee Shop offers hot drinks, wood fire pizza and sandwiches.

Ski rentals are available, and dogs are allowed on the trails so long as they’re fixed, friendly and their owners pick up after them. Dogs must be leashed or under verbal control.

For more information, visit dogcreeklodge.com.

Izaak Walton Inn

Nestled at the southern tip of Glacier National Park, the Izaak Walton Inn’s 33 kilometers of groomed trails wind through a forested valley in the Flathead National Forest, bristling with hemlock, spruce and fir. The trails wander around Dickey and Essex Creeks, with one mile of trail lit for night skiing.

The Izaak Walton sits in the “snow belt,” and often has up to a foot more snow than trails just a few miles down the road.

For a “rails-to-trails” experience, catch a ride on Amtrak from the Whitefish Depot to Essex, and then enjoy a day of skiing before staying in the cozy historic railroad hotel on the edge of Glacier National Park, or in one of the trailside cabooses.

Check in with the staff at the Izaak by calling (406) 888-5700. A day pass costs $10, and some of the trails are dog friendly. The inn is located at 290 Izaak Walton Inn Road, and grooming updates are available at izaakwaltoninn.com.

Round Meadows

Volunteers groom 12 miles of classic and skate trails about once a week or after large storms.

The trailhead is located in the Tally Lake Ranger District of the Flathead National Forest, 12 miles west of Whitefish. It has seven trail loops and a total of 12 miles of easy and advanced terrain.

To get to Round Meadows, follow U.S. Highway 93 North out of Whitefish for approximately 10 miles. At the Round Meadow sign, turn west onto Farm to Market Road and drive one mile. Turn right onto Star Meadows Road and drive one mile. Turn right into the parking lot at the Round Meadow sign.

For updated grooming reports, call the Forest Service at (406) 758-5204.

Dogs are welcome, but skiers should pick up after their pets.