fbpx

Downtown Kalispell Goes European

By Beacon Staff

Tony Loiacono distinctly recalls his upbringing in an Italian neighborhood in Toronto. He remembers the “sights, the sounds and the smells,” and he especially remembers the food. These are tasty memories and Loiacono has been kind enough to share them with the Flathead Valley at his new Kalispell restaurant.

Loiacono and Kerry Kage Harp opened up Bonelli’s Bistro in early May on First Avenue East, much to the liking of the downtown Kalispell business community and any other fortunate passerby. With a population hungry for nearby dining options, Bonelli’s has emerged as a centralized hotspot for the noontime professional lunch crowd.

Bill Morton, far right, has lunch with his son, Nick Morton, before the major lunch rush at Bonelli’s Bistro in Kalispell.

The restaurant boasts a diverse menu, inspired by Loiacono’s Italian roots and Harp’s Mediterranean tastes, as well as her culinary experience. Over a decade ago, Harp co-founded the Knead Cafe, which remains a popular Kalispell dining destination. Harp also spent years in the restaurant business in San Francisco.

Loiacono’s culinary expertise has been crafted through his mother’s recipes and in his own kitchen, rather than inside a restaurant. This is his first endeavor into the restaurant world and he’s letting his upbringing shine through.

“Growing up Italian, I was always around food – we always celebrated food,” Loiacono said. “I picked up the flavors from being Italian.”

Bonelli’s occupies the location previously belonging to Polebridge Baking Company and the Avalanche Creek Bakery. When Loiacono opened the restaurant with Harp, he said he “didn’t know what to expect.” But any anxiety he may have had is quickly fading away. He has discovered that downtown Kalispell was ready for another dining option, particularly a moderately priced lunch destination with a European flare.

“People kept telling me that downtown needed something,” Loiacono said.

Loiacono and Harp are the head chefs and, though the workload is heavy, they enjoy having a hand in everything that leaves their kitchen. They also have focused on local resources, purchasing their bread from Ceres Bakery and their pastries from Simply Sweet. It’s a comfortable marriage of ethnic and local.

Tony Loiacono preps mushrooms before roasting them at Bonelli’s Bistro.

The menu features paninis, eclectic salads with homemade dressings, ethnic soups, Italian subs, lasagna and wraps. Ingredients are far-reaching, with nods toward pesto, marinara sauces, salamis and prosciuttos, roasted sweet peppers, fresh mozzarella, champagne vinaigrettes and plenty more.

The two chefs have been honing their skills in their personal kitchen for years. The restaurant idea, after sufficient time “playing with recipes at home,” materialized to the point that it became the inevitable next step for food lovers. Loiacono says: “There’s a lot of passion for food between Kage and I.”

Summoning her talents as an interior designer and painter, Harp is responsible for vibrant décor inside Bonelli’s. These artistic leanings seep into the food as well. Harp cares strongly about the food’s presentation and it’s clear in every dish. Loiacono did his part in the interior design by providing family photos, which hang on the walls as artful black-and-white tributes to his Calabrian and Sicilian ancestors.

For the linguists out there contemplating the origins of the name “Bonelli’s,” the answer lies in Loiacono’s childhood nickname. As a boy, Loiacono said he was skinny even though he had a large appetite. To his peers, his thin stature resembled a bone, thus the nickname “Bone” was born. To add a European flare, Loiacono gradually took on the name Bonelli.

“It was ‘Italianized,’” Loiacono said.

Levi Foster pulls shots of espresso for a customer at Bonelli’s Bistro in Kalispell.

Bonelli’s is open from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday and 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturday. It’s located at 38 First Ave. E. and can be reached at (406) 257-8669. Outdoor seating is available. The restaurant also serves breakfast, with an emphasis on light dishes such as tortes and pastries. Coffee and tea are available as well. Visitors should also take note of the dessert menu, which has a variety of tarts and cakes.

Harp points out that enthusiastic diners who don’t want to miss a crumb need not worry at Bonelli’s. She enjoys hearing: “I hope you don’t mind, I licked my plate.” In fact, it gives Loiacono an idea for a Bonelli’s T-shirt line.

“I think it will say, ‘It’s OK to lick your plate at Bonelli’s,’” Loiacono said.