One of my chef idols, Alton Brown, talks frequently about the importance of “multi-tasking” when it comes to the things you buy for your kitchen. In other words, if you’re buying something for your kitchen that has but one use, it’s likely a waste of money. There are, of course, exceptions.
Parchment paper certainly qualifies as a multi-tasker, as it is used to line baking pans, make disposable pastry bags, and, of course, to wrap foods that are to be cooked en papillote. This will be the main focus of this column.
The primary quality of parchment is that it has a microscopic silicone coating that makes it grease-resistant, thus giving it almost the same quality as a non-stick pan.
Parchment paper can be purchased in rolls in the supermarket. As a culinary professional, I purchase it in large quantities (1,100 sheets in a carton – and each sheet is the size of a full commercial baking pan). I mostly use half sheet pans, so every sheet of parchment I use is either folded or cut in half.
The term en papillote means cooking in paper, specifically parchment, and it is one of the best moist heat methods since it steams the contents in a gentle method. The main protein rests on a bed of herbs, vegetables of sauce or a combination of these ingredients. The natural juices help produce the steam and enrich the sauce.
As the steam increases, the paper puffs up and, because a hot oven is used, the paper will char. You can also add great drama to the presentation by serving the puffed and charred packages and with great fanfare, deflate and open the paper with a sharp paring knife (using caution, of course, because of the hot steam that will escape).
The hardest part of cooking in parchment is the folding routine, but with practice, you’ll get it in no time and it will become a valued part of your cooking repertoire. Here’s one of my favorite en papillote recipes that can be used with almost any firm white fish (like orange roughy or catfish). If you use a fish filet that is “steak” thickness, add to the cooking time.
2 firm white fish filets
2 pieces of parchment paper
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. sun-dried tomatoes
2 Tbsp. white wine
2 tsp. garlic, minced
2 tsp. green onions, sliced, including tops
1 Tbsp. gingerroot, minced
salt and pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 425. Reconstitute the sun-dried tomatoes in hot water.
Wash the filets and set aside. Take a piece of parchment paper and fold in half and cut with a scissors so that when you open up the paper it is heart-shaped. Spread a little oil on one side near the crease in a spot big enough to cover the fish. Place filet on this spot of oil.
Chop up the green onions and garlic very fine and put about a tablespoon on top of the oil. Place the fish on top of the green onions and garlic. Coarsely chop the reconstituted sun-dried tomatoes and place on top of filet. Then sprinkle minced ginger on top. Sprinkle the whole prepared fish with salt and pepper. Add a tablespoon of white wine on top of each filet.
Now close the parchment one half over the other and beginning at the rounded side, fold and overlap the edge around the fish, about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch at a time. When you get to the last fold (the point of the “heart”), fold it under the paper and place each package on a cookie sheet or baking pan.
Place in the oven and cook for about 10 to 12 minutes, or until the parchment is golden brown and puffed. Open the paper very carefully by placing a paring knife in the center. Remember, there will be a lot of steam built up inside, so watch your hands and face!