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A Sint Maarten Eater’s Journal

By Beacon Staff

SIMPSON BAY, Sint Maarten, Netherlands Antilles – The first week of my annual vacation in Sint Maarten is one in which I prefer mostly to eat, as opposed to dine. There are all sorts of interesting restaurants and pubs that cater to the vacationer and most of them have pretty good food.

Some of them, however, have lousy service. That shouldn’t be the case in Sint Maarten because government labor regulations appear to require businesses to have more people on staff than they actually need. So service – at least acknowledgment from the staff – should never be problem. But at some places it is.

Peg Leg Pub

That’s what surprised me about an old favorite, Peg Leg Pub. Their original place was within walking distance of our timeshare apartment, but last year they moved to larger quarters across Simpson Bay to Port de Plaissance and the Princess Casino complex. I know the owners and like them and applaud their guts for coming out of retirement in Phoenix, Ariz., to risk it all with a restaurant in Sint Maarten. Their old place was a friendly pub on the water with decent food and an endless array of beers.

In their new place, twice the size and with a theater kitchen, it took nearly 15 minutes before anyone acknowledged us and took us to a table. It took another 10 to get drinks ordered, and nearly an hour to get the food because of a snafu in the kitchen (they sent our order to another table). Our food was decent, but I was expecting more.

Taloula Mango’s

This is a beach bar/restaurant on the newly constructed “boardwalk” (it’s actually concrete) behind Front Street in downtown Philipsburg, and with new cruise ship piers and docking facilities, including one for Oasis of the Seas (the largest cruise ship in the world), it’s a busy place.

The food is good and we enjoyed our Cuban-style barbecue sandwiches, but it is my observation that success went to the owners’ heads. Service is officious, inconsistent and food portions are by no means generous. In fact, the barren appearance of the plates surprised me. Order lunch and your sides are a one-ounce portion of red cabbage slaw (it comes in a plastic container) and a small wedge of watermelon. Clearly, it’s a get-em-in-get-em-out operation. I think I know what they’re thinking – cruise ship passengers will only be here once anyway, so why bother? That’s shortsighted. I’m here every year.

Buccaneer Beach Bar

And speaking of bar/restaurants on the beach, this place is crazy successful, located next to The Green House restaurant, which used to be Picante, which used to be Indiana Beach. Through all of its neighbors’ failures, Buccaneer just keeps on keeping on. Here you’ll find friendly, efficient service at the octagonal bar, where you pre-pay for your food and walk your own order over to a grill. These guys know how to grill. The menu is very simple: Hamburger, Cheeseburger, Hot Italian Sausage, Kosher Hot Dog, Swordfish Sandwich. They have salads, too, but you’re on vacation, if you know what I mean.

Every sandwich I’ve ordered at Buccaneer Beach Bar has been perfectly cooked, hot, generously garnished and overflows with freshly made French fries. As you have to place your own order you also have to pick it up when you hear a bell ring. Prices are reasonable and beer is cheap. Kim-Sha Beach is right there, so the sightseeing is often pleasant, too.

Topper’s

I wrote about Topper’s last year in this space and I’m going to write about it again. It’s still one of my favorite places for casual food and drink. I will make it my mission to come home with his recipe for coleslaw.

Space limitations, of course, force me to curtail this aspect of my eating binge. But there’s good food to be had at Uncle Harry’s (very expensive, but worth it at least once. It was probably the best grilled Caribbean lobster I’ve ever eaten.); Zee Best, a distinctly French breakfast and lunch place with extraordinary baked goods and delicious food; and Top Carrot, if you must be vegetarian (they’ve been here for years, attesting to their quality and consistency); and Jimbo’s, a noisy and fun Tex-Mex bar-restaurant.

So as I wrote of eating in this column, next week I will describe for you the dining experiences.

Happy New Year to all.