WHITEFISH – Turning 10 years old isn’t typically considered a colossal feat of longevity, but for a sushi restaurant in Montana, a decade is downright grandfatherly.
The Wasabi Sushi Bar and Ginger Grill celebrated its 10-year anniversary in January. Paula Greenstein, Wasabi’s owner, said the restaurant has been in the same location on Second Street in downtown Whitefish since the beginning.
Despite being a relative stranger in a strange land, Wasabi is a consistently popular dining destination, attracting a diverse ensemble of out-of-towners looking to satisfy their exotic taste buds and locals who just want some good food. Reservations are recommended, for good reason.
Greenstein attributes the restaurant’s endurance to three main factors: the creative foresight and ingenuity of previous owners Scott and Kerry Nagel, who understood that an innovative – instead of traditional – approach to sushi was necessary for survival; a strong local customer base; and an excellent staff. And Greenstein has certainly done her part too.
When Greenstein purchased the restaurant two years ago, she said much of the current foundation was already in place, but she tweaked, added and cut down where appropriate. Scott Nagel was the head chef, but Phil Vilar had worked under him for years, Greenstein said. So when Nagel left, she had Vilar step into the head role.
Vilar is inventive with his menu, offering daily specials and sushi rolls that incorporate various types of fish, tempura, veggies and diet-specific foods such as quinoa and gluten-free products. Greenstein is often the inspiration for menu experimentations.
While she doesn’t claim to be a chef, Greenstein has been around the restaurant business her whole life, with her dining repertoire stretching from Los Angeles to New York. She recalls being the only white person, other than her friend, eating at Japanese restaurants in west Los Angeles in the 1980s. Food has always been important to her, and sushi is vital.
“I know what works and I know what I like,” Greenstein said.
In 2004, Greenstein ate at Wasabi while visiting the Whitefish area. Accustomed to having quality Asian restaurants right outside her door in California, Wasabi was a welcome surprise. Then after she bought the Haymoon Ranch Resort in Happy Valley in 2007, she heard from a friend that Wasabi was up for sale and inquired about purchasing it.
Then in early 2008, Greenstein teamed up with her sister, who lives in Los Angeles, to buy the Second Street building, which houses Wasabi, an upstairs flat and the Green Tea House location next door. Greenstein is not the owner of the Green Tea House business.
The classy upstairs flat – called the Haymoon Resort Downtown Flat – can sleep up to 10 people and is rented out nightly, for several days or for events. It has a large bar-style kitchen, with a lounge area and seating sufficient for sizeable parties. It includes nearly 2,000 square feet.
When not rented out, Greenstein uses the space for events such as sushi-rolling classes with her chefs. Greenstein said her chefs are also available for hire for private events. The restaurant offers catering as well, and customers can order to-go trays of food.
Wasabi has been featured in publications such as Food & Wine and Budget Travel magazines. The restaurant’s atmosphere is lively, a mood that is accentuated by the colorful walls and energetic wait staff. Greenstein said: “I don’t want fine dining that’s so proper and prim.”
Greenstein takes great pride in her waiters, waitresses and hostesses. She said if someone stops by without a reservation and can’t get in, her hostesses try to accommodate. They’ll shuffle and add tables if possible without cramming, or if a wait is necessary, they’ll take a cell phone number, recommend a good bar to get a drink and give a call when a table opens up.
“They’ll do everything imaginable to get you a seat,” Greenstein said. “They’re amazing.”
Wasabi is expanding its “Community Nights,” which raise money for a different local organization by promoting the organization in advertisements and donating 10 percent of all revenue earned on selected nights. Recently, the North Valley Music School was the featured nonprofit.
In addition to helping out local organizations, “Community Nights” also introduce new customers to Wasabi. People who would never think to step foot in a sushi restaurant find themselves perusing the menu in support of a good cause.
These first-time customers discover something that brings many of them back: There’s an entire grill portion of the menu, with steak, duck, lamb, noodle dishes, chicken, salmon, salads, soups and more. Greenstein said the menu offers a compromise for those people who say: “I like sushi, but my husband doesn’t.” And sometimes Greenstein finds a few sushi converts.
Ten years ago when the Nagels opened up Wasabi, it surely turned some heads. Today, the restaurant is still turning heads.
“People thought they were crazy,” Greenstein said. “Now look at it.”
Wasabi Sushi Bar is located at 419 Second Street East in downtown Whitefish. It is open for dinner nightly from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., and can be reached at (406) 863-9283 or found on the Web at www.wasabimt.com.