Greetings, Beacon Nation! For more than three decades, the legacy of the Koocanusa Krank rock-climbing competition lived on through local lore, with stories swapped in between belays or over beers at the local crag.
Anyone well-versed in northwest Montana’s climbing history has no doubt heard the colorful tales of the Koocanusa Krank, an outdoor contest that debuted in 1988 at the Stone Hill Climbing Area near Rexford and, during its brief lifespan, drew a coterie of climbers who sent big routes on the quartzite cliffs spanning Lake Koocanusa. In exchange for their bravado, participants earned bragging rights as well as the opportunity to have their names etched indelibly in the region’s rich climbing history.
At some point in the early ’90s, however, the event was discontinued and, even as the tales grew taller, the vintage vertical contest fell through the cracks.
But in 2023, the Northwest Montana Climbers’ Coalition revived the Krank to highlight their mission of stewardship and safety, as well as to galvanize a growing climbing community and showcase the addition of 130 new routes to the crag at Stone Hill. This weekend, the competition continues to redefine climbing in the region when it kicks off for the third consecutive year under its new format.
Want to learn more about the upcoming event and its legendary history? Stick around.I’m Tristan Scott, here to lead the first pitch of this week’s news cycle with your Monday edition of the Daily Roundup.
On Saturday, Sept. 20, the local climbing community will set out to ensure the Koocanusa Krank remains a permanent fixture in 21st century climbing culture when it organizes the event at Stone Hill, which encompasses hundreds of climbing routes on both sides of Lake Koocanusa. Competitors will climb as many routes as they can between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m., accumulating points as they go based on route difficulty and style.
“It’s really just an opportunity to get a bunch of climbers together, have as much fun as possible and win tons of excellent prizes,” Jandy Cox, owner of Rocky Mountain Outfitter and an original Krank contestant, said.
In the late ‘80s, Cox and his Volkswagen van embarked on a cross-country climbing trek and, while road-tripping to the Bugaboos in British Columbia, encountered some dirtbag climbers hitchhiking along Highway 93 near Eureka. In exchange for Cox’s roadside assistance, the climbers invited him to attend the Koocanusa Krank, which he subsequently won. He also met his future boss, Don Scharfe, and then his future wife, who was a customer at the iconic outdoor retail shop in downtown Kalispell.
“Back then, all roads led to the Krank,” Cox said.
So, when Cox learned that the local climbing coalition was reviving the Krank in 2023 as their central fundraising event, he wanted to ensure the organization’s mission was a full send.
By all accounts, the return of the Krank has been a success.
“After careful evaluation of the prior two years, the Coalition is confident that this year’s competition will be better than ever,” according to a press release from the Northwest Montana Climbers’ Coalition.
After the scorecards are tallied, participants will convene at the Tobacco River Ranch in Eureka for a BBQ dinner, yoga, raffle prize giveaway, and the awards ceremony. An impressive array of prize packages has been donated by Rocky Mountain Outfitter, Rockfish Climbing & Fitness, and 1st Ascent Climbing & Fitness for the top-ranked climbers in each age and gender category. Tent camping at Tobacco River Ranch is included with admission and cabin rentals are being offered at a discounted rate.
Whether competing or not, there’s something for everyone. New this year, The Mountain Guides Montana are offering climbing clinics throughout the weekend. Clinics are open to anyone, and range from beginner to advanced skills.
More information about the Koocanusa Krank, other projects, and memberships can be found at NWMTCC.org.
Now chalk up your fingers, folks. It’s time to scale the rest of today’s mountain of news.
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